One of the books in the extensive (and ever-growing – 1,786 and climbing) whatfoodimade cookbook library organizes the recipes in a different way than others. Often, the entries are grouped by course, or maybe by season, or sometimes by ingredient. The one I’m thinking of today groups the recipes by colour.
I don’t know how often I decide what food to make based on the final colour of the dish but maybe on grey days, making something yellow would be a drug-free way to perk up your mood (also see Happiness Soup). And this lemon linguine would land right in the middle of the yellow section of that book.
It is quick and easy to make with ingredients I always have on hand and it’s delicious – all things I like best about recipes.
Start the water boiling to cook the pasta. Today the pasta is bucatini which is sorta like spaghetti, but with a hole running through it.
In less time than it takes to cook the pasta, the sauce will be made.
First, separate an egg and use the yolk (the yellow part).
Then add the cream to the egg yolk.
Grab a yellow lemon…
…and zest it.
Also squeeze the lemon juice into the bowl.
Grate the Parmesan cheese.
Add salt and pepper.
Stir all those ingredients to combine.
When the pasta is cooked, drain it. Try to remember to keep some of the pasta water in case the sauce is too thick.
Add the sauce to the drained noodles.
Here’s the recipe from How to Eat: The Pleasures and Principles of Good Food by Nigella Lawson:
Total: 18 min
Prep: 10 min
Cook: 8 min
Yield: 6 servings
2 pounds linguine
2 egg yolks
2/3 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 lemon, zested, and juice of 1/2, plus more juice, as needed
freshly milled black pepper
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves
Fill just about the biggest pot you have with water and bring to a boil. When friends are coming for lunch, get the water heated to boiling point before they arrive, otherwise you end up nervously hanging around waiting for a watched pot to boil while your supposedly quick lunch gets later and later. Bring the water to the boil, cover and turn off the burner.
I tend to leave the addition of salt until the water comes to a boil a second time. But whichever way you do it, add quite a bit of salt. When the bubbling’s encouragingly fierce, put in the pasta. I often put the lid on for a moment or so just to let the pasta get back to the boil, but don’t turn your back on it, and give it a good stir with a pasta fork or whatever to avoid even the suspicion of stickiness, once you’ve removed the lid.
Then get on with the sauce, making sure you’ve set your timer for about a minute or so less than the time specified on the package of pasta.
In a bowl, add the yolks, cream, Parmesan, zest of the whole lemon and juice of half of it, the salt and good grind of pepper, and beat with a fork. You don’t want it fluffy, just combined. Taste. If you want it more lemony, then of course add more juice.
When the timer goes off, taste to judge how near the pasta is to being ready. I recommend that you hover by the stove so you don’t miss that point. Don’t be too hasty, though. Everyone is so keen to cook their pasta properly al dente that sometimes the pasta is actually not cooked enough. You want absolutely no chalkiness here. And linguine (or at least I find it so) tend not to run over into soggy overcookedness quite as quickly as other long pasta. This makes sense, of course, as the strands of “little tongues” are dense than the flat ribbon shapes.
Anyway, as soon as the pasta looks ready, remove a cup of the cooking liquid, drain the pasta, and then, off the heat, toss it back in the pot or put it in an efficiently preheated bowl, throw in the butter, and stir and swirl about to make sure the butter’s melted and the pasta covered by it all over. Each strand will be only mutely gleaming, as there’s not much butter and quite a bit of pasta. If you want to add more, then do; good butter is the best flavouring, best texture, best mood enhancer there is.
When you’re satisfied the pasta’s covered with its soft slip of butter, then stir in the egg mixture and turn the pasta well in it, adding some of the cooking liquid if it looks a bit dry (only 2 tablespoons or so – you don’t want a wet mess – and only after you think the sauce is incorporated). Sprinkle over the parsley and serve now, now, now.